Crochet Pattern Rose Dust Sweater

The pattern is made for a loose fit and the back is a bit longer than the front. Feel free to keep them the same length if you wish. 

Turning chains do not count as stitches. Normal stitch count can be found in parentheses later in this guide. Stitch count is not granite stitches. For granite stitch count, divide stitch count by 2. 

  • This pattern is written using US terminology. 
  • Gauge (10x10cm / 4x4”) 19 rows of granite stitches 8.5 granite stitches across

Supplies
  • Yarn weight: Aran / Worsted / 10 ply / 9 wpi / 4 - sample is made using Laine from Novita.
  • Yarn usage: see size guide
  • Crochet hook size: 5.5 mm / I-9
  • Crochet hook size: 5.0 mm / H-8 (optional)
  • Tapestry needle to weave ends
  • Stitch markers or similar
Sizes 

This pattern is written in six sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL and 2XL. Stitch count for the different sizes are in the following order in the parentheses after each row in the pattern:

For example: (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 sts) (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL sts)

Sweater in pictures is size S. You will find the size guide on the next page.

Abbreviations
  • Ch Chain
  • Sts Stitches
  • SC Single crochet
  • DC Double crochet
  • FPhdc Front post half double crochet
  • BPhdc Back post half double crochet
  • 2tog Crochet 2 stitches together  

Starting the pattern

I recommend that you read through the pattern to get an overall picture on what you will be doing. The pattern is made in four pieces: a front section, back section and 2 sleeves. Once they are created you will sew together the front and back section and attaching the sleeves to the body piece. 

Start by checking your gauge. Begin with the 5.5 mm / I-9 hook size (if you know from the beginning that you crochet tight, you can start with a larger hook) and chain 23. Make a SC in the third chain from the hook. Ch 1. Skip next chain. *SC, Ch 1, skip next chain* repeat across row ending with a SC. Chain 2. Turn. Continue with Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. Make rows of granite stitch until your gauge swatch is 10 cm / 4” and you are ready to check your gauge. 

Crochet Pattern Rose Dust Sweater

SIZE GUIDE


Note! The measurements below are the measurements of the final garment size. Your own measurements should be around 5 cm / 2” smaller. 


BODY - FRONT

Ribbing Row 1 and 2 are ribbing rows. For the ribbing, it is recommended to use the smaller hook size

Chain (73, 83, 93, 101, 109, 119)
  • Row 1: DC in third chain from the hook. DC across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts) 
  • Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts) 
  • Row 3: *SC, Ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat across row ending with a SC. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts) Row 4: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts)
 Continue making rows of granite stitches until front section measures (49, 55, 55, 59, 59, 59 cm) / (19.3”, 21.7”, 21.7”, 23.2”, 23.2”, 23.2”). Now continue with shoulders.


Right shoulder - front (continue from previous page)

  • Row 7: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (21, 25, 29, 33, 35, 37 sts) 
  • Row 8: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 9: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35 sts) 
  • Row 10: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 11: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33 sts) 
  • Row 12: Granite stitch across, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the shoulders together.
Left shoulder - front

Put a stitch marker at the (30, 34, 38, 42, 44, 46) stitch from the straight edge. 

  • Row 1: Begin from the straight edge. Attach your yarn with a slip knot, ch 1. Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (27, 31, 35, 39, 41, 43 sts) 
  • Row 2: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 3: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (25, 29, 33, 37, 39, 41 sts) 
  • Row 4: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 5: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (23, 27, 31, 35, 37, 39 sts) 
  • Row 6: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 7: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (21, 25, 29, 33, 35, 37 sts) 
  • Row 8: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 9: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35 sts) 
  • Row 10: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 11: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33 sts) 
  • Row 12: Granite stitch across, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing the shoulders together.

BODY - BACK


Ribbing Row 1 and 2 are ribbing rows. For the ribbing, it is recommended to use the smaller hook size 

Chain (73, 83, 93, 101, 109, 119)
  • Row 1: DC in third chain from the hook. DC across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts) 
  • Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts) 
  • Row 3: *SC, Ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat across row ending with a SC. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts) Row 4: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (71, 81, 91, 99, 107, 117 sts) 
Continue making rows of granite stitch until back section measures (63, 68, 68, 68, 73, 73 cm) / (24.8’’, 26.8’’, 26.8’’, 26.8’’, 28.7’’, 28.7”) (or as according to front measurements, if you wish to have front and back sections the same length). When at desired length continue with the shoulders

Left shoulder - back

Put a stitch marker at (20, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34) stitch.  
  • Row 1: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35 sts) 
  • Row 2: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 3: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33 sts) 
  • Row 4: Granite stitch across. Fasten off.
Right shoulder - back

Put a stitch marker at (20, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34) stitch from the straight edge 
  • Row 1: Begin from straight edge. Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (19, 23, 27, 31, 33, 35 sts) 
  • Row 2: Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. 
  • Row 3: Make granite stitches until you have two spaces left before the stitch marker. Crochet 2 granite stitches together (2tog). Chain 2. Turn. (17, 21, 25, 29, 31, 33 sts) 
  • Row 4: Granite stitch across. Fasten off.

Sleeves

Make 2. Sleeves are worked flat, from bottom and up and then seamed to the sweater. Start with the ribbing (row 1 and 2). For ribbing it may be good to use the smaller hook size to avoid curls.

*Extra increases for size L, XL and 2XL Make rows 25,45, 60 & 65 according to these instructions. - 
  • Row 25: Increase row (47, 47, 51 sts)
  • Row 45: Increase row (59, 59, 63 sts)
  • Row 60: Increase row (67, 67, 71 sts)
  • Row 65: Increase row (71, 71, 75 sts ) 
Increase row: Make 2 granite stitches in first stitch. Granite stitch across until last stitch. 2 granite stitches in last stitch. Chain 2. Turn.

Sleeve length Row 80: 47 cm / 18.5”

For more sleeve variations - see last page (particular if you make size M or L sweater)

Chain (33, 37, 41, 41, 41, 45) 
  • Row 1: DC in third chain from the hook. DC across row. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39, 39, 39, 43 sts) 
  • Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39, 39, 39, 43 sts) 
  • Row 3: *SC, Ch 1, skip next stitch* repeat across row. SC in last stitch. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39, 39, 39, 43 sts) 
  • Row 4-19: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (31, 35, 39, 39, 39, 43 sts) 
  • Row 20: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (35, 39, 43, 43, 43, 47 sts) 
  • Row 21-29*: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (35, 39, 43, 47, 47, 51 sts) 
  • Row 30: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (39, 43, 47, 51, 51, 55 sts) 
  • Row 31-39: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (39, 43, 47, 51, 51, 55 sts) 
  • Row 40: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (43, 47, 51, 55, 55, 59 sts) 
  • Row 41-54*: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (43, 47, 51, 59, 59, 63 sts) 
  • Row 55: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (47, 51, 55, 63, 63, 67 sts) 
  • Row 56-69*: Granite stitch across row. Chain 2. Turn. (47, 51, 55, 71, 71, 75 sts) 
  • Row 70: Increase row: 2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite stitches. Chain 2. Turn. (51, 55, 59, 75, 75, 79 sts) 
  • Row 71-80: (or until you are happy with the sleeve length): Granite stitch across. Chain 2. Turn. (On your last row skip chain 2 and turn, fasten off instead). (51, 55, 59, 75, 75, 79 sts) 

Sewing


Use the mattress stitch to seam the front and back sections. Start sewing just above the ribbing on front section and remember to leave holes for the sleeves. Do not fasten off so that openings can be adjusted later on if needed. 

Continue with shoulder seams, leaving a tail allowing for adjustments of neck opening later. Make sure to make all the seaming on the wrong side of the sweater. Note! This sweater does not have a strict right or wrong side, you choose which one is your right and which one is your wrong. 

You’ll find many instructions online on how to sew the mattress stitch. But basically you work from one side to the other, going in with your needle from under the stitch, like you would if you attach a shoelace to a shoe. You continue by going from under alternating between the sides, just like with the shoelace. 

Now you are ready to sew the sleeves. Fold them in half long ways, with wrong side facing out, and sew them long ways using the mattress stitch (or a stitch of your choice). Attach them to your sweater using the mattress stitch. Make sure you have wrong side facing out and that the seam goes from the armpit

NECKBAND


Check and adjust seams on each shoulder, make sure that the sweater fits over your head and that you are happy with the width of the neck opening. Make the final seam for shoulders and continue with the neckband.

Use a smaller hook. I used 5.0 mm / H-8.

With right side (not inside out) of the sweater facing you, attach your yarn to one of the joins of the front and back pieces at shoulder sections with a slip knot. Chain 2.

Row 1: DC around all the stitches in the neckline. Slip stitch to your first stitch (does not count as stitch) and chain 2. 
Row 2: Alternate FPhdc and BPhdc across to create ribbing. Fasten off.  

Sleeve variations

If you feel that the sleeves might not be optimal size for you, here are some instructions on how to modify them.

In particular for size M and L, you might need to modify the sleeves to get a better fit. You do this by either adding increase rows or removing them. Each increase row widens the sleeve with 2 cm / just under 1”. To get the stitch count you add 4 stitches for every increase and remove 4 stitches for every increase row skipped.

Increase row 

2 granite stitches. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. Granite stitch across until last 3 granite stitch gaps. Make 2 granite stitches in the same stitch. 2 granite stitches. Chain 2. Turn.  

Suggestions: 
  • Wider sleeve size M: add extra increase rows on row 45 and 60. That will give a sleeve circumference of 40 cm / 15.8” at widest. 
  • Smaller sleeve size L: skip extra increase rows 25 and 45 (and just make them as in instructions). That will give a sleeve circumference of 40 cm / 15.8” at widest.

Making a Rose Dust Sweater in 2 colors


If you’d like to make a Rose Dust Sweater in 2 colors as I did, here are some instructions on how to do it. Yarn used Lana Gatto Asian. I used 2 colors and 50/50 of them. I started to decide which color to have down and which one up. After that you need to decide on the length of your sweater (see size guide for suggestions). 

After that you start making the front and back panels in the color you have decided to have down. Use this color until the section measures half of the total length. Change to your second color and use that to complete the front and back section, including the shoulders part. 

I recommend that you sew the front and back sections together at this point, so that you may try it on to see where to make the color change for the sleeves. For the sleeves you begin with the color you have down on the body section. You will make it almost as long as you have the color on the body pieces. Put on your body piece and hold your sleeve around your arm to see the point on where you need to change color.